Ottawa, Illinois and Hurricane Isaac

With the sky filled with the outter bands of Hurricane Isaac, the Muriel June is snug in a safe harbor.

Early morning off the Muriel June stern of the Illinois River and its duck weed patches.

Not so full grain silos this year.

Seems like each year we have a hurricane to report and this year is no exception.  For the next two days we will be hunkered down in a very safe harbor along the Illinois river called Heritage Marina.  It has tall earthen mounts surrounding the harbor for protection.  Funny how these “I” storms have followed us no matter where we are.  

Today we locked through two very tall locks. These are all run by the Army Corps of Engineers and unlike other locks we’ve traversed, these don’t charge users.  Perhaps that is something they need to do.  No longer did we pass power plants and refineries today, but rather fertilizer plants as well as many grain elevators. We’ve heard, because of the dying corn crops, these elevators will be be almost empty this year because of the drought.  The battle has been corn vs. moving loads by the waterways.  The farmers want to pump from the rivers, but then there won’t be enough water for the barges.  Additionally, with the lower water there is a lot of grass and duck weed in the waterways which clog strainers to engines.

Illinois River

Muriel June in the locks and rigged for low bridges

The Asian Carp Fish Barrier into the Great Lakes where only one vessel goes through at a time.

Muriel June docks with little house boats in the midst of green duck weed.

Where in the heck are we?  We are in Grundy County, Illinois at mile marker 273 on the Illinois River.  We came about 55 miles today, through 3 locks and more bridges than I could count.  We started at 6 a.m. from the Calumet Canal off Lake Michigan at mile marker 333.  That means 333 miles to the Mighty Mississippi.  We joined the Chicago channel at mile marker 330.  We waited 4 hours for one lock because of very slow tows/barges.  It was an interesting trip filed with lots of communication with barges and bridges.  With our radar mast down, we sailed through everything over 17 feet.  But, there were still plenty of low bridges we had to ask to be opened. 

Tonight we are in a most spectacular spot on the Illinois River at Mile Marker 273 watching the full moon rise at place called Harborside Marina that is mostly made up of houseboats.  A very unique group of people lives here most of the year around and celebrates the holidays on their houseboats as well.  We heard from the dock master, Ron, the community is a very cohesive one made up of everyone from Pearl who is 91 years old and still drives to the grocery store to the younger residents of 50.

Today’s travels included many electricity plants—coal burning, oil refineries and sewage treatment plants that looked like cascades of waterfalls.  Remember that the rivers all shifted after 1900 not to flow into Lake Michigan. So all the sewage from  the Illinois River on down goes into the Mississippi and not Lake Michigan.  We are truly following the sewage path to the Gulf of Mexico.

Hammond, Indiana

We left the skyline of Chicago off the stern this morning.

Muriel June was surrounded by 8 Illinois Conservation Police boats doing “docking practice”. From the position of this boat in the slip, this fellow needs additional training.

Our Chicago good-bye at day break gave us an impressive view of the city with the first light from the east shining upon the skyscrapers.  Our last evening at the Columbia Yacht Club featured a great dinner on their foredeck overlooking the harbor.  This morning seas were a little rocky on the beam as we headed south to Hammond, Indiana.  We filled with fuel and pulled into the dock to ready the Muriel June for low bridges and locks.  So, fenders must be pumped up and the radar mast lowered for the next few days.  We have 7 locks to get to the Mississippi and 333 miles.  Those boats in front of us through the Asian Carp barrier have said it was a “non event.”  And, they haven’t yet, seen carp either.  

The big activity in Hammond Marina is gambling.  We’ve spent the summer gambling on the weather, but now have a real casino at the and of the dock.  We hope the odds will be with us as we head down the rivers for the next two weeks.  We will try to post each day, but we know there will be some days with no reception for cell phones or wi-fi as we’ll be at anchor part of the time.  For those of you who are following us on a map, we have 333 miles on the Calumet canal and Illinois River, then about 218 miles on the Mississippi, then about 60 miles up the Ohio to the Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers.  The Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, will be downbound, while the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers will be upbound.

Leaving Chicago

Having won their division, the Muriel June Chicago Triathlon Team celebrates. Left to right: Bonnie, Carter, Karen and Cole

We exchange Houston’s Lakewood Yacht Club Burgee for Chicago’s Columbia Yacht Club Burgee.

Muriel June has been parked near the Chicago Police Boat center. We had some good conversations. However, when they put the red lights on hang on because they do not follow the big “No Wake” sign next to us.

Our time in Chicago has been outstanding, from the many athletes and friends on the Muriel June, to meeting and greeting the many other Loopers who have come into DuSable Marina while we’re here.  We are so proud of our triathlon athletes to have done so well winning first place in their category.  Today, we worked at getting the mast down for the many bridges we’ll cross under heading down the Illinois River as well as watching Isaac’s progress.  We seem to be plagued by “I” hurricanes.  Ike did damage to the Muriel June. We met Ida in Louisiana as we hung out under the Houma bridge, We were locked in the Erie Canal Lock 3 during Irene and now Isaac is supposed to ride right up the Mississippi to Chicago.  We will be in Ottawa, Illinois on Saturday when she hits up here, so we have reserved a safe harbor. 

Today we dined at the Columbia Yacht Club, established in 1892, the year of the World Exposition in Chicago.  The club is actually on an old ice breaker they purchased from Canada.  It sits in the Chicago harbor and serves as the yacht club site.  We noticed they had no Lakewood Yacht Club burgee, so we presented one to them and in turn, received their burgee for our yacht club.  Their big race is the Chicago to Michigan City race each year.  Also, several times a week during the summer they have sailboat races including a tremendous youth sailing program

Chicago Triathlon and Roy Lichtenstein

Muriel June’s Chicago Triathlon Team at 5:30 AM. Left to right: Bonnie, Karen, Cole and Carter.

Start of Wave #13 out of 48 Waves. Bonnie is one of the pink swim hats in the middle of the chaos.

After mile swim in Lake Michigan, Bonnie runs on carpet for another half mile to pass baton to Carter for the bicycle leg of the Triathlon.

First in their Division!!  Can you believe that?!!  Yes, they won their division.  Their team was named “Misfits!”

Food from the local grocery was loaded onto the Muriel June and included lots of pasta for the athletes.  Karen and Cole (Bonnie’s Tulane friend) and Bonnie and Carter checked into the race headquarters by 3 p.m. on Saturday afternoon.  Then the party began on the Muriel June with the four athletes and some of their Chicago friends: Daria, Vic, Sophie and Dave.  Talk centered on race tactics, past competitions, and other adventures each had had.  The party culminated with fireworks from the Navy Pier.

At 4:30 a.m. we awoke and readied ourselves for the 5:15 a.m. gathering.  Bonnie swam in the pink hat wave, Karen in the yellow hat wave.  Bonnie, Carter and Cole did the race as a team (Bonnie swam, Carter biked, Cole ran) while Karen did the entire race.  Daria, Alan and I watched from the sidelines cheering them and trying to support them as needed.  Their times were good—about halfway in the pack.  With 8000 athletes we won’t know the results until the end of the day, but the entire event was well organized and supported by the local community.  We were pleased to see so much of the Chicago police and fire departments participating.

Bonnie’s other big event this weekend was to attend the Roy Lichtenstein Exhibition at the Art Institute of Chicago.  He is an artist Bonnie loves and has used as a model for her students because of his very vibrant and diverse techniques.  The exhibition incorporated pieces from throughout the artist’s life as well as his sketchbooks.  What impressed me so much were the unique ways Lichtenstein incorporated techniques from a multitude of artists even dating to  ancient Greek times.

Chicago

Muriel June approaches the Chicago skyline.

Downtown Chicago with Navy Pier in foreground.

“Red sky in the morning is a sailor’s warning.” ” Red sky at night is sailor’s delight”
This was sunrise.

Chicago in the summertime is glorious. People are at the beach, bikers and joggers work out along the many trails, and boaters are out sailing or cruising.  Thousands of boats are moored or docked in the many marinas that line the Chicago waterfront.  I am always amazed how many boats there are here–and then like magic, they are all gone by the second week of October–put away for the winter. The DuSable marina where we are docked, is the home for the Chicago police and fire boats which frequently pass by the Muriel June.

We arrived about 11 a.m. into the harbor, were met by the dock harbor host with lots of information and have already seen other Loopers here as well.  Bonnie and Carter arrive this weekend to participate in the triathlon.  Their friends will come to the Muriel June on Saturday night for a party, then more parties after the athletic competition.  We are poised in a great spot, close to the swimming portion of the triathlon.  We plan to stay here until next Wednesday, will post each day, but only send out the initial spot.

Kenosha, Wisconsin

New Housing on the waterfront.

New outside theater at the marina that is underconstruction.

Today was another Chamber of Commerce day as we headed to Kenosha: smooth water and clear skies with light winds.  As we left Milwaukee a lake cruise ship entered the harbor.  We loved Milwaukee with its parks, museums and beautiful harbor. But, most of all, we loved Milwaukee because of the friendly people we met as well as our friends and relatives there. 

Several of you have sent us notices about low water on the Mississippi and other “Western” rivers.  We are following the low water situation very carefully.  Loopers are already heading down the rivers and send back reports daily.  The very low parts are below where the Ohio enters the Mississippi and not a part of the river we’ll traverse. We are also watching the tropics for the next hurricanes (Isaac for this week) that are forming.  Boaters always have alternatives and today we went through the entire rest of the trip to Mobile, Alabama looking for lots of alternatives if we need. 

Kenosha waterfront, like many other cities along the way, has re-invented itself. A park surrounds this beautiful harbor; a trolley car takes people around town; and new housing developments have sprung up where factories once stood.  Tomorrow we head to Chicago.

Leaving Milwaukee

Lynne and Lauren Miller visit the Muriel June

Front of the “Wing” over the Milwaukee Art Museum that opens and closes three times a day.

Back of the “Wing” that is over the Milwaukee Art Museum that opens and closes three times a day.

My family moved to Milwaukee in 1842 and there are still many of the family here in the town of Brewers, beer and the arts.  Sunday, cousin Jenny met us with her family. Last night Eric Miller’s parents (Lynne and Lauren Miller) met us for dinner in downtown Milwaukee at a wonderful pub that served an array of beers from Milwaukee, the U.S. and other parts of the world.  Today my cousin, Susie Apple, joined us for lunch.  How wonderful to have so many friends and relatives here in Milwaukee (the town that has re-invented itself) to meet and get caught up on family news. 

The Milwaukee waterfront is a spectacular place with parks, marinas, and lots of activities such as music concerts, kits flying, kayak and paddleboat rentals, and lots of sailing events in addition to nightly fireworks.  It is also possible to take our dinghy through the harbor and up the river to different restaurants.  The famous art museum designed by Santiago Calatrava, a highlight for us, featured an exhibition of Posters of Paris highlighting Toulouse-Lautrec and other contemporaries.  Paris at the turn of the last century had a media blitz as colorful posters advertising musicals, drama, and events in Paris were plastered on billboards throughout the streets in the 1890’s.  This was a time of technological innovations with graphic designs, color, and humor as part of the richness of advertising.

Milwaukee

Clare, Brett, Jennifer, Rachel, and Laura Erdmann come to visit the Muriel June.

The Erdmann’s go for a ride in the Muriel June Dinghy. Laura does a good job of steering the dinghy.

The Indians called this place the land where the rivers meet and the word was “Miliki. “But the early settlers thought it sounded like Milwaukee and so this city where the rivers come together to flow into Lake Michigan was named.  Today, under clear skies and smooth waters we cruised into the harbor about 10 a.m. arriving just as the buoys were taken out of the harbor to start the day of sailing races. 

My cousin Jenny and husband Brett brought their three daughters, Rachel, Laura, and Clare, to the boat for a visit.  Rachel did an outstanding job reading the story of the “Christmas Tree Ship” a wonderful true story about a captain who delivered Christmas trees to Chicago.  But, tragically in 1912 a winter storm whipped across Lake Michigan sinking the ship near Two Rivers, Wisconsin.  The next year the Captain’s wife continued the practice of delivering Christmas trees in memory of her late husband. 

Alan took the dinghy down for a ride with the girls around the harbor where sailboats are moored in the center.  After the dinghy ride, rain started, then hail!  Wisconsin is finally getting much needed rain, but we are glad to be safely tied to the dock during thunderstorms.

Port Washington, Wisconsin

These 3 ladies had their act together…it was fast and it made it around the course without the cardboard box boat sinking…

These two costumed ladies with big T-Shirts over their lifevests are saying, “Will this thing float? Maybe we should have tested it first in a pool. Oh well, too late now.”

Opps…This cardboard boat did not quite make it around the course.

A clear, crisp morning with very light winds and flat waters signaled a beautiful cruise to Port Washington where fuel prices are the best on Lake Michigan.  In many places along the coast from Manitowoc to Port Washington we were surrounded by 40 to 50 fishing boats, all of which left even earlier than our 6:30 a.m. departure.

In Port Washington we were greeted by festival sounds, bands, art work, lots of food like fried cheese curds, and best of all—the cardboard boat races.  Contestants dressed in costumes to match the theme of their cardboard boats.  Each team, hoping to win the timed trials, entertained the crowds who were seated along the city docks either cheering or groaning when their favorite boat won or sank.  Two tall ships are also part of the festival and took several loads of spectators out onto Lake Michigan for a spin with full sails unfurled.  Tonight we’ll be entertained with more music and fireworks!