Killarney on Georgian Bay

One of the “Flower Pots’ that has the face of the Indian Prince in the legend

Indian Princess who was turned to stone in the legend

Muriel June with a group of Grand Banks from Michigan, Wisconsin and Indiana

Killarney, Ontario—not Ireland and above the 46^th parallel

Every morning we check all the weather indicators we have: Weatherbug, NOAA, Wunderground, IKITESURF.com etc.  This morning even through we’d had only one lovely day in Tobermory, we decided to cruise across Georgian Bay before the next storm with thunder, rain and strong winds arrive Tuesday.  After a great breakfast at the Princess Hotel, we pulled off the dock cruising past Flower Island.

On Flower Island there are two flowerpots that are quite a tourist attraction.  Legend says there were a beautiful Indian Prince and Princess from warring tribes who fell in love.  They ran away and canoed to Flower Island.  Their tribes followed, but instead found them turned to stone.  Those limestone pillars are now called the flowerpots of Flower Island. 

We arrived at Killarney at 1:30 to be greeted by 4 other Grand Banks and one Looper!  So, tonight the party is on the Muriel June.  The Grand Banks are returning from Parry Sound where there was a Grand Banks Rendezvous and all heading to Wisconsin.  Sorry we missed it!  But, tonight we will get caught up on all that we missed.  We are now at the 46^th parallel.

Tobermory and Georgian Bay

Little Tub Harbor where boaters gather before jumping across Lake Huron back to Michigan

Glassy waters on the bow in Lake Huron at a depth of 518 feet.

Beginning of the many islands in Georgian Bay

Six hours of cruising over total glass waters and we entered the pristine Tobermory Harbor along with several other Grand Banks who had just come from a rendezvous in Parry Sound.  So, it is another rendezvous for us here with fellow Grand Banks owners and lots of other boats.  Tobermory is the entrance to Georgian Bay for boaters crossing Lake Huron.  Lots of summer cottages lined the shore.  We passed kayakers, water skiers, and divers as we came in. These straits, until they were marked are the site of many ship wrecks.  And, in the crystal clear waters we can see down 30 or more feet to every rock, fish or lake grass. 

Tobermory is at the tip of the Bruce Peninsula of Ontario and an extension of the Niagara Limestone escarpment.  Once this land was under water near the equator, 450 million years ago.  With plate shifts and then the glaciers much has changed.  We learned that there are many unique species of plants here—even 41 species of orchids and carnivorous plants. We heard two fishermen talking over VHF this morning about watching a black bear swim across the channel.

Port Elgin Harbor

Canadian Geese show how low Lake Huron is this year

Canadians enjoying the beach on the eastern shore of Lake Huron.

Cho-Cho train runs around the edge of the Port Elgin Marina

This is our last Canadian port on the major part of Lake Huron before we get into Georgian Bay.  The weather is predicted to be glorious as we cruise the last 75 miles of crystal blue water tomorrow to Tobermory, the gateway to Georgian Bay.  We passed many fishermen as we headed north today and learned upon reaching Port Elgin that this was the BIG fishing contest weekend.

Port Elgin is called “the town of maples” because Sam Bricket, one of the founding fathers planted many of the sugar maples along three major thoroughfares.  The town is also supposed to be built upon the native Nodwell Indian village dating to the 14^th century.  Incorporated in 1874, Elgin was once a timber and fishing town, but now it is mainly for tourists in the summer time with “unrivaled beaches  (6 miles long) and matchless sunsets.”   As I walked along the park, a little park train tooted past the walkway lined with park benches donated by families who loved this area.  Their memories are printed on the park benches, one reading: “Golden sunsets, crystal blue skies and turquoise waters.”

Goderich, Ontario, Canada

Largest salt mine in world. Tower is elevator that goes down 1/4 mile and mine extends 3 miles under the lake. New blue color is from rebuild after last year’s tornado.

Grain elevator torn apart along with town by tornado August 2011

At 6 a.m. we were off the dock into the very swift St. Clair River as it runs under the Blue Bridge.  We followed a barge pushing a dredge out of Port Huron and headed 35 degrees northeast to Goderich.  Seas were between 1 and 3 feet on the bow, then leveling to flat as we neared the coast.  Here, the largest salt mine in the world (Sifto Salt Mine) is located across from the Muriel June and runs deep (1/4 mile down and 3 miles into the lake) under Lake Huron.  The guidebook calls Goderich “the prettiest town in Canada.”   It was until a tornado hit the town last August and tore the top off the grain elevators, the salt mine shaft and then went up the hill to cause tremendous damage in town.  Dr. William “Tiger” Dunlop originally established the town in 1827.  Tiger, apparently was quite a character and known for his escapades as a British Army surgeon in India. His intention was to make Goderich the main port on Lake Huron. Visitors to the town are presented with a rock salt crystal.

Port Huron

One Section of the five mile long US Steel Plant on the Detroit River. Iron Ore, Coal and Linestone are all piled along the waterway all used to make steel.

Blue Water Bridge connecting US and Canada. Southbound current of up to 4 knots passes underneath.

The Blue Water Bridge, gateway to Lake Huron, came into view about 1 p.m. today as we tied to the Ontario side of the St. Clair River in a town called Sarnia.  After a 4:30 a.m. wake up, we left port at 6 a.m. to head across Lake St. Clair.  Our weather –bug screen showed a massive storm coming down from Lake Superior.  Winds were light as we crossed the lake and mostly from our south (following seas, yea!).  Currents in the St. Clair river run about 2 mph, however, under the Blue Water Bridge currents (4 mph) are much stronger running south against us.

Today we passed half a dozen tankers some bringing in coal to power the power plants along the St. Clair River.  Lots of fishermen were out this morning before the rains came so we had to watch very carefully to lower our wake.  Beautiful homes with docks line most of the St. Clair River.  We stopped at Algonac to fuel up (#3.75 gal for diesel) and pump out.  The Algonac marina help were wonderful—actually the most helpful team of any we’ve encountered along our trip!  Algonac is a beautiful town on the St. Clair river with many little shops.  We spotted both a CVS pharmacy and a grocery as we headed out.  The day was still beautiful, so we decided to head for Port Huron, only 27 miles away. 

In port at Sarnia (across from Port Huron) for the night, the winds have kicked up, but it looks as if the storm will pass to the north.  We are checking out weather indicators to see how Lake Huron will be tomorrow.  Along the way we saw a salt plant, lots of grain silos, and power plants with huge piles of coal surrounding them.

Detroit River

Everyone is trying to produce wine on Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. This winery was on an island in lake Erie.

Crystal Cave at the winery

Two lakes down and two to go!  We left Put in Bay at 7 a.m. this morning with calm seas, but threats of thunderstorms, which we hoped would pass to our south—and they did!  Yesterday in Put-in-Bay we played tourists for part of the day with a winery tour, combined with a cave tour.  The winery is built over a calcite cavern—supposedly the biggest geode known.  We climbed into the geode—down about 50 steps to view the beautiful calcite crystals, then back up to sample both the red and white wines that are made on South Bass Island at the Heineman Winery.  Grapes are both from the island and from other parts of Lake Erie. 

History plays a big part of South Bass Island because of Perry’s naval victory over the British in September 1813.  We learned that he was able to out maneuver the British because he had the wind behind him.  However, many seamen on both sides were killed in this battle involving about 20 ships.  Next year they will have the reenactment of the battle and are inviting an armada of about 1000 boats. Wish that the Muriel June would be there for that event.  However, we didn’t leave without a flag with Perry’s command: “Don’t Give Up the Ship!” 

Today crossing the west end of Lake Erie and up the Detroit River we encountered very few ships.  There are many beautiful islands in the Detroit River, but coming into Detroit the landscape changed dramatically to industry with U.S. Steel taking up several miles along the U.S. side of the river.  Sadly, no cargo ships were parked at her docks.  We noticed the long line of trucks heading across the Ambassador Bridge into Canada waiting for inspection.  Then we passed the monster General Motors building on the River and docked in Windsor on the Canadian side for the night.  The dock master said that both GM and Ford had closed their Canadian plants, but Chrysler still had its plant manufacturing Dodge Caravans.  Tomorrow we cross Lake St. Clair.

Western Lake Erie Islands and Put In Bay

Put-In-Bay Dock Greeters

We have seen 3 Nuclear Power Plants on Lake Erie. The Canadian side of Lake Erie has numerous gas wells while none on the US side.

Ole Timey Cars, Kayaks, Boats and Golf Carts dominate the island of Put-In-Bay

Alan loved his burgee exchange at the Lakeside Yacht Club in Cleveland, and we made many friends while there—even some who are planning to do the Great Loop. 

This morning we checked the wave buoys, weather predictions and left about 6:30 a.m. as a freighter was also leaving and one entering the Cleveland harbor.  But once clear of the harbor and passing only three kayakers, we were clear to cross the 65 miles to South Bass Island and Put-in-Bay that has a reputation for relaxation, parties and great food.  On this island everyone rides bikes, walks or takes electric golf carts to get around and is accessible only by ferry or private boat.  It is also the celebrated spot where Commodore Perry beat the British Navy during the War of 1812 and the Peace Memorial for that event stands tall on the island.  Since we’ve been here we’ve seen a classic car rally, bagpipe band marching along the street and lots of mega boats.  We look forward to lots of exploring in a golf cart along this three-mile long island.

Dodging Storms on Lake Erie and Cleveland, Ohio

After the MJ crew presented the Lakewood Yacht Club (LYC) burgee to Rocky and Cookie of the Cleveland Lakeside Yacht Club (LYC) (note the same initials), they presented the MJ crew their LYC burgee.The Lakewood burgee now hangs proudly in the bar at the Cleveland LYC.

The MJ has flown the burgee of the American Great Loop Cruising Association.. After three years, the MJ has to put up a new one as the old one had shown signs of wear after the 5000 nautical mile journey

At this time of year, we have seen numerous weddings being performed on the shores of Lake Erie

This morning we left Geneva State Park Marina after a lovely dinner at a winery/B and B last night overlooking the lake.  The gardens were spectacular and several weddings were in progress as we walked through the State Park Lodge to the winery.  Winds slowly subsided, but the breakers on the beach were scary.  The entrance getting into and out of the marina is silted in, so we didn’t want to leave with pounding to our hull to the sand.  We’ve been monitoring the buoy reports from the lake and watched as they went from 6 feet waves down to 2 this morning.

But, this morning before dawn, the engines of about 20 fishing boats revved up, and we also knew it was time to leave.  All was serious as coolers and gear were loaded onto the many fishing boats that roared out to catch the big ones.  We passed the big nuclear power plant east of Cleveland, then a coal fired power plant.  Close to noon we landed at the fuel dock at the Lakeside Yacht Club in Cleveland.  We are just south of the stadiums for the Browns and Indians and tonight we look forward to fireworks from the Indians’ game.  We also met a very nice couple with an Ocean Alexander trawler who are planning the loop, so joined them for lunch at the yacht club. Lots of people are stopping by to visit with us—a very friendly yachting group!

Tomorrow we will head out early to make the 65 miles to “Put-in-Bay” at the west end of Lake Erie before the next storm hits the lake.

Geneva State Park

Sunrise to the East with “following swells” that push the MJ toward the storm to the West on Lake Erie.

Sign says,”No Fish No Pay” With that many rods how could you NOT catch any fish.

Long ago we learned that the best time to travel is often in the pre-dawn hours.  We awoke at 3:30 a.m. to check out our weather information.  A huge storm materialized to our west and was gaining in strength.  By 4:30 a.m. we were off the dock, leaving Erie, PA and heading 50 miles to Geneva State Park Marina in Ohio with following seas all the way.  We watched Venus descend and the sun rise about 6 a.m.  Throughout the next few hours we kept checking “weather bug” and our on board weather system as the storm approached from the west.  This storm was traveling about 30 mph and covered multiple states from Kentucky to Ontario. 

By 9:45 we were in Geneva State Park Marina, filling with fuel and then securing the boat.  No sooner had we done that than the sky blackened and downpours began interspersed with thunderclaps.  What a wonderful feeling to be safely secured to the dock when big storms break!

Many paths wind through this lovely beach resort park.  Geneva on the Lake is the oldest beach park in Ohio.  It is enjoyed by hikers, bikers, hikers, and water sports enthusiasts: fishing, kayaking, and canoeing.  Fishing is taken very seriously here.

Erie, Pennsylvania

Fishermen use many different types of equipment to fish the Great Lakes and lots of poles.These two show off two of their Walleye

Master Gardner Jayne walks among the many gardens in Chatauqua

Commodore Perry monument who is noted for the saying “Don’t Give Up the Ship”

Each time we leave a harbor we wonder what the next will be like and how the trip there will be. Today was beautiful—no fog as predicted, light winds to keep us cool, and when we arrived at Erie, Pennsylvania, the Bay Harbor Marina we’d chosen is beautiful.  They put us on the “bragging” dock because they said that people up here love Grand Banks.  But, we are sad, because Jayne Land who flew in to help us with the Welland Canal has left us.  We had a wonderful visit while she was here.  We rented an Enterprise car and drove to Niagara Falls one day, then to Chautauqua yesterday to the art fair as well as a little wine tasting on the way. 

This harbor is supposedly the best natural harbor on the Great Lakes!  And, it is famous for Commodore Perry in the War of 1812 when he fought and won a battle against the British.  Erie is also the home of the U.S.S. Niagara that is a reconstruction of Perry’s flagship and also the official ship of Pennsylvania.  Each Tuesday night the symphony plans in the park, and there are sailboat races in the bay most nights.  We will certainly enjoy our two days here as the Blue Trolley takes visitors throughout the town free of charge.